Planning a solo trip to Southern Italy? Here’s my detailed 11-day itinerary covering Rome, the Amalfi Coast (Positano), Naples, and Palermo, perfect for first-time visitors or solo travelers looking for inspiration!
Overview: Southern Italy Solo Travel Itinerary
In June 2021, I had the opportunity to take a six-week sabbatical through work, and I spent ten days of it on a solo trip through Southern Italy, exploring cities that had been high on my travel wish list for years. With the world just starting to open up again post-COVID, it felt like the perfect time to experience these incredible places without the usual crowds. I had an amazing time wandering through historic streets, relaxing on beautiful beaches, and eating some of the best food of my life. Along the way, I met so many kind and curious locals who were surprised (and happy!) to see an American girl traveling solo again after such a long pause. This itinerary includes:
- Rome (2 nights)
- Naples (1 night)
- Amalfi Coast – Positano (3 nights)
- Palermo, Sicily (3 nights)
For an easy-to-use version, you can view this itinerary and others in a spreadsheet format here.
Day 1-2: Exploring Rome
I flew overnight from NYC to Rome, landing with a mandatory COVID test at the airport. I stayed at Rhea Silvia Luxury Navona, right in the heart of Piazza Navona, which is my favorite spot in Rome and a perfect base for exploring. My room overlooked the fountains, and I could hear the church bells ringing on the hour.
Must-see spots in Rome:
I enjoyed meals at Al Tre Tartufi for classic cacio e pepe and Aperol spritz, pizza at La Montecarlo, and a food tour in Prati where I was able to meet fellow travelers and try a variety of local dishes.
Though I skipped the Colosseum, Vatican City, and the Roman Forum this trip (visited before), these remain top attractions for Rome visitors.
Day 3: One Night in Naples
A short one-hour train ride brought me to Naples, home of world-famous pizza. I stayed at La Ciliegina Lifestyle Hotel, which offered stunning views of Plaza Municipio and Mount Vesuvius.
I took a walking tour through Naples’ historic streets, ending at a charming waterfront walkway with boats.
I had a delicious pizza dinner at Ristorante Pizzeria 7 Soldi. The best crust, perfect cheese, and a generous drizzle of oil made this one of my favorite meals in Italy. I also thoroughly enjoyed the perfect little jug of wine just for me. Be prepared to eat pizza with a fork and knife!
Day 4-6: Positano and the Amalfi Coast
To reach Positano, I took a hydrofoil ferry from Naples to Sorrento, then a taxi due to a bus strike. The drive to Positano is along tall, steep cliffs, and the views keep getting better and better, but I felt in good hands driving with someone who knows the area. The taxi dropped me off on the side of the road because my hotel was down a steep staircase, which was an adventure with my suitcase.
My hotel, Miramare, had a balcony with spectacular views of the sea and town. It was everything that I wanted and more. I had a balcony overlooking the city and water, a living room with a couch, and a bathtub with ocean views. Positano was very beautiful and romantic. I was here for three nights, and it was the only time I was lonely on the trip being solo somewhere so romantic with a crowd that’s mostly fancy couples. When I arrived, I went to a little beach around the corner from my hotel , Fornillo Spiaggia, which was a fun walk along the water. I had dinner at Le Tre Sorelle and had yummy spaghetti with mussels and white wine. I love how every dish in Italy has a maximum of four ingredients, and they are all highlighted so well. So simple, pure, and delicious. Positano is stunning but steep and pricey, so be ready for lots of uphill walks!
Hiking Path of the Gods
For my next day in Positano, I wanted to hike Sentiero Degli Dei, or the Path of the Gods. I took the public bus to a nearby town, Praiano, and then walked up, up, up, keep walking up, 1,000 steps until you get to the top of the mountain to the trailhead. It was beautiful, but for some reason I was incredibly slow. It was hot and dusty. You can see all the way down the Amalfi coastline to Capri in the distance, and there were lots of flowers along the walk. The hike was about five miles, then you walk 1,500 steps down back to Positano. Don’t miss the frozen lemonade stand on your way down! I was out on this adventure from 12:30pm – 5:30pm. Dinner was seafood risotto and a dirty martini.
Day Trip to Capri
I had one more free day in Positano, so I asked my hotel what I should do to further explore the Amalfi coast. They recommended I take a boat to the island of Capri. They booked it for me and I walked down to the friendly group ready to head to Capri. It was a fun and beautiful boat ride, and took about 45 minutes to get to Capri. When we arrived, we had four hours to explore the island of Capri. I took a public bus to the town Anacapri and walked around admiring the shops, and then took the chairlift to the top of Monte Solaro, which was beautiful and I definitely recommend it. Then I took another public bus from Anacapri to Capri, and the spent the rest of my afternoon exploring the main town, window shopping, admiring the white walls and bougainvillea, and tasting pastries. On our way out, the boat parked in the water and we went swimming. There were two other couples on the boat, and no one spoke much English, but they were all so nice and it was a really fun day exploring Capri and the Amalfi Coast! We were gone 9:30am – 6pm.
Overnight Ferry to Palermo
The next day I was going from Positano to Palermo in Sicily. I took a public bus from Positano to Sorrento, and had amazing gnocchi alla Sorrento while waiting for my ferry. I then took the hydrofoil ferry from Sorrento to Naples, and boarded an overnight ferry from Naples to Palermo. I booked a private room on the overnight ferry which had two small beds and a private bathroom with a shower. I enjoyed walking around the ship at takeoff and seeing the sunset before getting a few hours of sleep in my room.
Day 7-10: Palermo, Sicily
The overnight ferry pulled into Palermo, Sicily early in the morning, and I walked from the ferry to my hotel, DeBellini Apartments. My room was very nice and had a small kitchen. I was excited to explore the street markets, including Mercato di Ballarò, where I bought cherries, tomatoes, and basil, and Mercato del Capo. I lingered by the fruit stand with a sweet smile on my face to be offered un assaggio (a taste) of whatever they thought I should try, and discovered a new type of melon. I walked laps down the main street, Via Maqueda, and enjoyed getting glimpses of the impressive Mount Etna in the background. I then stumbled upon the Palermo Cathedral, Villa Bonanno, and the Botanical Gardens, which has one of the oldest and largest trees in Europe – a 173-year-old Moreton Bay fig. I was impressed by the Baroque architecture and vibes of Quattro Canti, and had two meals at Bisso Bistrot right next to it, particularly enjoying a pasta with green sauce and mussels. The opera house, Teatro Massimo, is the second largest opera house in Europe, but was closed when I was there due to Covid. If you get a chance to take a peek while you are in Palermo, I’m sure it would be worth it! By the time I got to Palermo, I was very tired from my trip so I mostly just ate dessert on Via Maqueda. If I had the energy to figure it out, it would have been nice to take a trip to a nearby town and explore a beach. I was glad the town was flat after so many steep hills at the other Southern Italy cities I had been to. I was surprised that not a ton of people knew English in the hotels and restaurants, so that was a slight challenge when trying to explain things, even in a large city. The food in Sicily was a little different than what I had seen before, so I wasn’t sure what to eat on menus, although I tried to do research and be adventurous. There is a lot of farming in Southern Italy, and they are very proud of their agriculture.
Enjoying Italy
Wandering around Italy is literally my favorite thing in the world. I love the wine and Prosecco. The prosciutto and cheese. The intricate buildings and stone roads. So much history happened there, yet it is so well preserved for millions of visitors a year to enjoy. I had never been south of Rome before, so I had a great time exploring these new Southern Italy cities! I wasn’t too lonely on my trip traveling solo, and there can be benefits to not having to compromise your itinerary with someone or feel guilty for sleeping in. I was pretty busy and chatting with people for most of the trip, so there was not as much quiet, reflective time as I was expecting. I planned the trip to Southern Italy last minute and asked a few people if they would like to come with me, but they weren’t able to so I am glad it was not a deal breaker for me to decide to go solo for a trip that I wanted to take. I never felt unsafe, although I stayed in crowded areas and was not out too late. Everyone in Southern Italy was very nice and helpful to explain things to me or show me around. Due to Covid, indoor dining was closed while I was there, and there was a 11:00pm curfew every night across all of Italy.
When planning a trip with this many stops in this amount of time, something I have learned the hard way is to be mindful of how long you are staying at each place. For this Southern Italy itinerary, I stayed 2 nights in Rome, 1 night in Naples, 3 nights in Positano and 3 nights in Palermo. I have made the mistake of moving around a lot more than this, which is exhausting to have so many travel days. This allowed enough time for me to get familiar with somewhere, but still see several places. It is also tiring to have ten days of doing something big to do every day because you want to get the most out of your time, so just know what to expect and plan for rest and minimal travel days accordingly. I hope you have a fun trip exploring the beautiful sites, delicious food, and infamous history throughout Southern Italy!